Within minutes of being met by Ken and the tuk tuk for the short journey to the bike hire place, we were shown the ropes and were off. What ever was I thinking? You know how you can read something that isn't there and ignore what's written in black and white when one's imagination gets the better of you? Pah! This was in fact a gentle pootle around the charming small town of Luang Prabang with the added whoosh that a flick of the wrist injects when you simply can't be bothered to pedal any more. Within minutes I was a total convert to the electric bike and imagining myself buying one of these mega-machines back home, eating up the short drive to work and into town, even with the hill in Loxley to contend with. Furthermore our day involved merely exploring town centre museums, temples, an ethnic centre, a fabulous restaurant for lunch, an amazing viewpoint and a dying crafts centre to boot. Joy upon joy for our photo album and our burgeoning knowledge banks.
Next we moved on to Wat Xieng Thong, considered by the locals to be the most important symbol of their country's religous heritage. It was getting hot by now so to stand under a tree listening to our guide's life story was a pleasant way to pass a few minutes before we were free to roam the magnificence of the buildings at our leisure.
Another zip along and we pulled in at Wat Aham, the oldest temple in the town which boasts an enormous gilded statue and highly decorated walls depicting all the stories the monks learn about paths to enlightenment, and to hell. Gruesome.
Ming
Feeling pretty templed-out by now we were happy to be informed that lunch was next on the agenda but not before a brief stop at an amazing vantage point for fabulous views across the river and to see something Ken had previously referred to - the bamboo bridge. This incredible structure has to be rebuilt every year as the rainy season waters simply wash it away.
Couldn't resist taking the inevitable selfie - such tourists!
Lunch was a set menu Lao affair providing yet more opportunity to push ourselves to taste things we'd probably never have chosen. Most of it I can't remember the names of but it included chicken baked in lemongrass, a delicious plum cocktail and dessert consisting of guava, jujube, longan and tamarind - all fruits and all delicious. What an experience.
Next it was off to the silk farm - Ock Pop Tok - which was started by two women, a Lao master weaver keen to keep the tradition alive and a Western woman who wanted to support this female-dominated art, and so was born East Meets West or Ock Pop Tok in Lao). Here we saw the young silkworms, cocoons forming the raw silk and every complex and detailed step of the dying and weaving process. It's unbelievably skilled and, by the admission of the male guide, one which men simply don't have the dexterity or patience to undertake, another reason why the art is important to sustain for the womenfolk.
Silkworms on a bed of mulberry, the cocoons form, natural dyes using tree bark, plants or rock, and the weaving shed. I would have loved to buy something truly dramatic but know that, back home, an intricate 10 foot long Asian wall hanging would probably look out of place.
Final stop (and by now we're flagging - hot and in need of a second cooling shower of the day so could be forgiven if our attention span was short) was the ethnic centre to learn more about the Hmong and the other 48 ethnic groups that make up the rich tapestry of Lao life. I took pictures of pictures but think they are beautiful none the less.
And if YOU are exhausted reading this, imagine how we felt. A nap was very much required but it had been a really fun day.
* Not really - I made their names up
**Sorry - made that up too. Actually this is a sort of astrology cum fortune cookie 'game'. Shouldn't diss it really but it does sound a little far-fetched.
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