"Are You Four Elephants?"

Yes, ok, I know I could do with losing a few pounds but when a mini bus pulls up outside one's hotel and the driver poses this question (especially as HRH was still dropping our key off at reception), hey! - a girl could get a complex! Except that today I WAS "for elephants"! Yup, our final fling was to go and play with a few of the 'million elephants' after which a former King of Laos nicknamed his country to project an image of size and power. 

The details of the excursion were a little sketchy because we had left the booking to Khen who got us a great deal on a package including time with a group of pachyderms and a trip to another waterfall. "Pick up 10.30am - take your camera and sunscreen." But never did we expect the most superlative of days to top off an already incredible holiday. 

On arrival at the elephant centre we and our multi-national group of 9 were welcomed with iced tea and briefed on the visit. Feeding first. 

All girls, all with good appetites (the boys are left to roam the jungle as they're 'too naughty!') were not shy about the sugar cane and bamboo on offer.

Next we were up a set of stairs to facilitate climbing aboard, two to a saddle seat, for a lollop through the jungle. Our old dear was definitely in a Sunday mood - stopping at every tree for another snack! 

She definitely wasn't in the mood to catch up any time soon. Big hats needed again for 40 minutes in the midday sun. The one you can see belongs to our mahout. Great fun ...

Little did we know the best was yet to come. Feeling more than a little unprepared as everyone else followed instructions now to use the facilities to change, the penny dropped that the final part of the ele-experience, bathing, was NOT going to involve a bucket and a long handled broom! OMG OMG OMG ... "Ok, everyone ready? Follow me".

When a pretty young lady in a mini skirt & sandals and carrying a sunshade sets off towards the river, somehow you feel that all will be well. What could we possibly be about to do if she manages to look this pristine? If you're thinking what I was thinking then surely overalls would be more appropriate!  Or at the very least galoshes? 

In this location the river's edge is more like a beach. Imagine if you will a party consisting of a handsome young Dutch couple, a single Chinese chap, four middle-aged German ladies and us. Everyone else is now in beach wear and carrying towels. We were not. And then the elephants came down to play. 

The hilarity and the joy that ensued was best captured on video but suffice it to say that sitting astride an elephant's neck with your legs tucked behind it's ears whilst it takes a bath in the Mekong River will go down as one of the most memorable things we've ever done. Wet through? You bet. Did we care? Not a bit.

Totally awesome!

And so, smelling more than a little of ele-poop and river water, we showered with the others (still fully clothed in our case) for the next part of the day. Remember that mention of another waterfall? If you read yesterday's post you might be forgiven for glossing over this passing reference in the package tour description - we did. High hopes we did not have. Another oversight ...

Back to the mini-bus (bearing in mind we're dripping wet), quick 5k wizz up the road and we're dropped off at the gates to the Kuang Si Park and Falls. "Enjoy yourselves. See you in three hours. Be ready for pick up at 4.00pm." 

3 hours? 3 HOURS!! What on earth? 

But this was no dried up trickle like yesterday. This was no awkward stumble over roots and leaves - oh no! This, to our utter delight, was a black bear sanctuary and the most incredible series of tumbling, roaring cascades complete with azure bathing pools set in sumptuous Laos-style parkland you have ever seen. And we were already wet through - so what the hell! 

We lunched with this for a view, dried off in the afternoon sun and struggled to wipe the smiles from our faces until the clock beckoned us back to the bus! Oh, joyous day. 

Ooops, sorry bears - nearly forgot you.

Amen.

Dawn Devotions

It's our last day. The page in our itinerary is blank save for the words "At your leisure". After yesterday's exertions you might expect we would lie in, breakfast late and lounge by the pool. But somehow there's a sense that if we don't squeeze in every last opportunity to see as much as we can the chance may be lost for ever. It's unlikely we will return to Laos. So we rose at 5.00am while it was still dark and took a stroll down the main high street in the hope of witnessing the alms-giving ceremony which was so often mentioned as a must-see by guide books and agents alike. 

Despite the early hour we knew when we had arrived in the right place as a row of mats and cushions lined the pavements and local shopkeepers were setting out baskets of bananas, small sweet biscuits and bamboo sticky-rice containers. We imagined these were to be purchased by anyone wanting to give alms but unsure of the protocol we declined the approaches of the womenfolk and found a bench on which to wait. It was peaceful, there were few people were about. 

Having decided to observe from a reverent distance rather than to participate directly (partly as no-one had been able to explain precisely what was about to happen) we were content to sit and await sunrise and the chanting of the monks. It was not long before our illusions were shattered with the arrival of the first of several mini-bus loads of Thai, Korean and Japanese tourists, none of whom seem to have been briefed on the expectation to remain silent, to respect the monks' desire to be undisturbed, to cover knees and shoulders and to remove hats - grrrr. 

There is no doubt that the sight of so many monks gratefully receiving their sustenance for the day is moving, but you have to be able to see through the now commercial opportunity that the 'spectacle' has become. The mats and cushions turned out to be pre-paid 'bookings' by a large party of visitors, many selfies were snapped and a great deal of loud instruction and giggling ensued. I felt almost guilty to be a part of the tourist problem and, slightly shocked not to say a little disappointed and annoyed, was mightily relieved that we had made the decision to keep a distance. 

A final observation: there was something else going on here that took a few moments to spot. As fast as the monks received donations of food into their panniers so they were dropping some of it into boxes and tubs on the road-side. For a split second you could be forgiven for thinking they were being selective about what they fancied for lunch that day. Not at all. This was them giving back. Once they had more than they felt they needed, the rest was passed on - to the poor! Now THAT was moving.

Monks of all ages: but note around the edges, the camera snapping crowds and the coffee concessions. And yes I realise, with a heavy heart, the irony of this statement .... but trust me, my images are heavily edited with a zoom lens and some serious cropping. 

Patiently receiving ... 

... and generously giving, to the poor.

Without the crowds it was a truly lovely sight but there was no chanting, no drum beat and no bells. I imagine the whole process has been rather 'spoiled' and that they keep their serious devotions to the peace and quiet of their temple. I don't blame them. We didn't stay long.

Final note: in case you were thinking this was the Last Post, no such luck. We've decided to treat ourselves to one final unplanned activity. More later .... 

I'm a Middle Aged Western Woman - Get Me Out of Here!

By my own admission I was a bit grumpy this morning. Tigger, on the other hand, was in fine fettle. Breakfast was a slightly tense affair. It's not so much that I wasn't looking forward to our day's hiking but certainly WAS concerned about the heat, the distance (Ken indicated it would be about 4k which didn't sound right: our itinerary said about 4-5 hours of walking), lunch and how we were to carry sufficient water to prevent dehydration. It also occurred to me as we were collected from our hotel at 8.30am that at home I would never go hiking for any distance without my most comfortable boots, thick socks and a vague idea of where we were going. I had none of the above. HRH remarked in the minibus to goodness-knew-where that he'd missed two weeks of Rambling!

Ah well, there was no turning back now and with our new guide for the day, Pai, assuring us that he had accommodated Mr Exciteable's veggie lunch we were off. Oh, and it was to be 16k!! "Here - some more water to put in your pack" Well at least that was reassuring, if heavy ...

The minibus journey took us around 40 minutes, out of town, travelling some of the worst unsurfaced roads I've experienced to date ("Ah, this is like when I used to go to India" says HRH. Oh good!) and dropped us at the water's edge. First unexpected challenge: cross the river. 

Um .....

Next, having disembarked, cross more water

This is starting to feel like a team challenge!

Finally we settled into some sort of rhythm, and my dark grey mood lifted with the cry of the cicadas as we strode out through forests of tall teak trees, surrounded by incredible mountainous scenery.

Teak is one of the main export commodities from Laos.

Just look at those mountains. I was secretly praying they were more than 16k away but the walking was enjoyable. It was now about 10.30am and getting VERY warm.

Before long we arrived at a small village where we were greeted by excitable children, but where a quick photo opportunity was all that slowed us down. 

Sabaidee!

Aren't they adorable?

River weed drying on racks.

Apparently they have a Women's Union advocating '3 aspects to be considered as good'. They don't say what they are. Thinking about this kept me busy for a while as we ploughed on. 

Continuing through bamboo 'woods' we were told that the next section involved a steep climb and sure enough the terrain, along with the temperatures took an upward turn. If I say that by the time we reached the top I must have consumed my body weight in water and that elevenses was a dose of rehydration salts, two glucose tablets and a banana you might have some idea how utterly draining the climb was - but the shade offered by the charming family who let us borrow their dining table was like an oasis and recovery was soon achieved. 

Late morning. Welcome shade and a chance to rest. 

Pet monkey. They also kept free-range pigs, a few scrawny chickens and a dog or three. 

Renewed energy on board and with another hour to go before our next break (for lunch) we settled down for a few more kilometres.

Everyone greeted us with a friendly wave, even a busy farmer.

Bamboo woods.

Not that ALL I ever think of is food you understand, but a few km further on and I was starting to anticipate lunch (it's energy draining, all this walking and thinking). And so we arrived in Houayfay, a large village of the Camu tribe where they were busy going about their daily chores, drying rice, bringing in the goats and manning the village store. 

Great rice-drying weather.

This goat came to investigate where we were to have our picnic lunch.

The corner shop - we bought yet more water and a coke each. Sugar levels were low again. 

And so to lunch. This was perhaps one of the biggest surprises of the day - and not altogether in a good way. Pai's English was certainly passable but we hadn't really been able to establish where the promised picnic was to be sourced from. It turns out it was in his back pack all along. Out came three plastic bowls, three spoons, and 5 freezer bags, the contents of which were possibly the most unappetising selection of traditional Lao food we've ever seen. A watery bamboo soup, some stir-fried veg (probably the euphemistic river weed - otherwise known as swamp cabbage), some glass noodles with minced meat, a bag of sour pickled veg, and a huge quantity of sticky rice - all cold!! But what were we to do? Hungry, genuinely appreciative and not wishing to offend despite it looking most unappealing we tucked in. Bon appetit.

They even set a cloth on the table for us. 

Final stretch ahead. Just another hour to go to the waterfalls which were our ultimate destination. Sadly Pai gently broke the news that as we are in the dry season the falls are low and the bathing pools empty of water but that didn't mean we had a choice - onwards we went. 

I'm now going to précis the last hour - mostly because I could hardly think about anything other than putting one foot in front of the other. The heat was so intense and the terrain underfoot hard going, up and down over tree roots and slippery with dry leaves, that arriving at the falls, less impressve than we had hoped or not, I was just elated and grateful to have finished. Tigger was still in fine fettle. 

Not much of a cascade.

Pretty though, and welcome if only to indicate the end. I was, frankly, shattered. 

Just another day's ramble?

The journey back to the bus was fun though - by motor boat! Goodness, we've done a few crazy things this trip. Now bed beckons. Up really early tomorrow to catch the monks' alms-giving ceremony. It's non-stop here you know. Night night. 

The Mighty Mekong

After another sensible start time today our car transported us a matter of minutes to the riverside. Our intinerary described the trip as a half day "Boat Trip to the Pak Ou Caves" with not much more information than that. Stephen had asked the previous evening but all Ken proffered was that it was a long tail boat. So, we packed sun tan lotion and mosquito repellent, a couple of bottles of water and tried to imagine what was in store.

Approaching the waters edge where our carriage awaited.

This is what we imagined would be our transportation up-river.

It soon became clear that longtail boats are used for tour groups and that several were loading ready for the off. More surprising however was that ours was to be just that ... Ours! A canopied motorised cruiser all to ourselves for a 2 hour trip upstream. Unbelievable. 

All to ourselves! 

Happy bunny!

Back to the more interesting views, sadly difficult to capture in the haze of the sun over the water but needless to say it was a breathtaking cruise upriver to our destination.

Following the curves of the river and the ever changing mountainous backdrop we passed individual dwellings, small patches of evidently cultivated land, the odd small herd of water buffalo and the occasional strangely manufactured stone 'tower' sticking up from the rocks. Ever curious, HRH asked what they were.

Water buffalo - trust me.

This stone tower is used as a depth marker for bigger boats which can only use the river after the rainy season.

After an hour and a half's relaxing cruise it was time to disembark to explore a riverside village where they make rice whisky. I declined a tot although joined HRH in sampling the less potent rice wine, leaving him then to try the strong stuff. The process and the home-made stills they use (knocked up from a couple of old oil barrels) have to be seen to be believed. So too do the finished products! 

Each bottle contains a venomous creature of one sort or another, mostly scorpion or snake. These are introduced to the bottles whilst still alive so that, once the whisky is added, the creature gives out its venom when it dies (drowns presumably) thus giving the finished product additional medicinal value. 

King Cobra, "only for the older male generation". We are still not clear if this is the Lao equivalent of Viagra or whether you'd have to be already past your best to want to risk it!

There was a very funny moment around the next corner. Sadly we were told no photographs were allowed but that it was ok to look closely at some large jars of the same whisky. I couldn't work out what HRH was doing when he started to remove his shoes. Looking quizzically at him I was about to say something when he asked me why I was frowning. "What are you doing?", says I. "Didn't you hear?", he replied, "Ken said bare feet". "No he didn't", I chuckled, "He said bear feet!" For that was what was in the jar of whisky - all huge and hairy! And I can tell you now that I'd have to be pretty poorly to take any of that as a cure, however magical the properties are meant to be. Moving on ...

The same village was full of stalls selling homespun cloth and silks - all beautiful, all tempting - and a dear old monk guarding his shrine.

Back on our boat it was a short distance further upstream to our destination. 

The Pak Ou Caves were first believed to have been used for religious purposes when the Lao people worshipped Phi, the God of Nature. I don't know how they know this nor when it was, just that this is what we're were told. Nowadays every Lao New Year the locals make a pilgrimage to the caves to add a Buddha statue. There are already over 4000. 

My happy little Buddha.

Sadly the photographs of the caves didn't turn out well but you get the idea. A shorter down-stream journey back and the morning relaxing on the boat had been great fun. 

Back to our boat via the wobbly rushes-and-bamboo jetty. 

PS En route back Khen produced some photographs of him when he was a monk, and on his wedding day, to complete yesterday's charming life story and was happy for me to snap them as a memory. How kind.