Dawn Devotions

It's our last day. The page in our itinerary is blank save for the words "At your leisure". After yesterday's exertions you might expect we would lie in, breakfast late and lounge by the pool. But somehow there's a sense that if we don't squeeze in every last opportunity to see as much as we can the chance may be lost for ever. It's unlikely we will return to Laos. So we rose at 5.00am while it was still dark and took a stroll down the main high street in the hope of witnessing the alms-giving ceremony which was so often mentioned as a must-see by guide books and agents alike. 

Despite the early hour we knew when we had arrived in the right place as a row of mats and cushions lined the pavements and local shopkeepers were setting out baskets of bananas, small sweet biscuits and bamboo sticky-rice containers. We imagined these were to be purchased by anyone wanting to give alms but unsure of the protocol we declined the approaches of the womenfolk and found a bench on which to wait. It was peaceful, there were few people were about. 

Having decided to observe from a reverent distance rather than to participate directly (partly as no-one had been able to explain precisely what was about to happen) we were content to sit and await sunrise and the chanting of the monks. It was not long before our illusions were shattered with the arrival of the first of several mini-bus loads of Thai, Korean and Japanese tourists, none of whom seem to have been briefed on the expectation to remain silent, to respect the monks' desire to be undisturbed, to cover knees and shoulders and to remove hats - grrrr. 

There is no doubt that the sight of so many monks gratefully receiving their sustenance for the day is moving, but you have to be able to see through the now commercial opportunity that the 'spectacle' has become. The mats and cushions turned out to be pre-paid 'bookings' by a large party of visitors, many selfies were snapped and a great deal of loud instruction and giggling ensued. I felt almost guilty to be a part of the tourist problem and, slightly shocked not to say a little disappointed and annoyed, was mightily relieved that we had made the decision to keep a distance. 

A final observation: there was something else going on here that took a few moments to spot. As fast as the monks received donations of food into their panniers so they were dropping some of it into boxes and tubs on the road-side. For a split second you could be forgiven for thinking they were being selective about what they fancied for lunch that day. Not at all. This was them giving back. Once they had more than they felt they needed, the rest was passed on - to the poor! Now THAT was moving.

Monks of all ages: but note around the edges, the camera snapping crowds and the coffee concessions. And yes I realise, with a heavy heart, the irony of this statement .... but trust me, my images are heavily edited with a zoom lens and some serious cropping. 

Patiently receiving ... 

... and generously giving, to the poor.

Without the crowds it was a truly lovely sight but there was no chanting, no drum beat and no bells. I imagine the whole process has been rather 'spoiled' and that they keep their serious devotions to the peace and quiet of their temple. I don't blame them. We didn't stay long.

Final note: in case you were thinking this was the Last Post, no such luck. We've decided to treat ourselves to one final unplanned activity. More later ....