Pretty, Moving and Pretty Moving

Despite being a day of 'rest', by which I mean a day at sea with no scheduled port stops, today demanded an early start. By 6.00am the local National Park Rangers were aboard, brought in by dinghy, the doors to the bow were thrown open and the excitement amongst the early risers was palpable. Outside our stateroom the muffled voices and feet of nature-curious passengers could be heard moving along to access the deck apron to stake their claim to prime viewing spots. Having our own balcony, close to the bow and on the starboard (right, and therefore shore side, whilst we were still travelling North) proved to be a well calculated blessing (nice one HRH). The object of such keen interest was Glacier Bay. A vast stretch of waters, forked and twisting, this area of outstanding natural beauty was to be navigated slowly but surely throughout the day, before the Nieuw Amsterdam would turn South to commence the long sail back to Vancouver. 

The Rangers were on site to give presentations, answer questions, clarify matters of geographical and geological interest and to promote the continued interest in and protection of Glacier Bay National Park. As our Captain skilfully negotiated the ship slowly but steadily through the icily blue/green waters the sun came out and bathed the mountain tops with sunlight, creating the perfect backdrop for stunning views after stunning views. At each turn another glacier came into view culminating, by lunchtime, with Marjery Glacier, the most incredible of all. 

Panorama, thanks to the incredible technology built into modern iPhones.

And, contrary to expectations (prompted by fears of global warming), although some glaciers are retreating, others continue to grow. How each is changing depends on the elevation and pitch of the nearby mountains. Those that remain snow-clad for much of the year lay down continuous new ice to feed and promote growth of their nearest glacier whilst the lower-lying peaks whose run-off melts or lays less deep feed shallower glaciers, more prone to retreating and eventual loss. More fascinating, especially at the deepest of glacier faces where whole chunks can fall off at any time, these living, moving forces of nature can be heard as well as seen. Encouraged to be quiet on deck and with all music and outdoor activities suspended, we joined many others listening to the creaking, cracking and pistol-shot noises coming from the glaciers as they shift under their own weight. We were even treated to a rare but beautiful 'calving', with a significant hunk of glacial ice falling from the face with an almighty roar like thunder. 

As the dense ice falls into the sea so it introduces oxygen as well as mineral rich silt which contribute to the colour of the ocean.

And so, after much static admiration of the scenery a few turns round the deck were required before dinner. It seemed many had the same idea! 

Once again, heading south, after leaving Glacier Bay behind us, I snapped this view from a deck porthole during our 'constitutional'.

Here then, the end of another day. After all that beauty and excitement it seemed positively churlish not to have a Blue Lagoon cocktail before dinner to celebrate. Cheers!