After our first stop (more later) I was at the wheel, cruisin' down the Icefields Parkway, otherwise known as Highway 93 out of Jasper and heading south. Known as possibly one of the most scenic routes in the world, there were SO many possibilities for places to stop, even if only for a short while, that we were spoilt for choice and having to make ruthless decisions given that we also had to cover 330 kilometres. And the rocks? Well just when we thought we'd seen mountains, along come the real Rockies, huge, towering hunks of, well rock really. So far above sea level that they soar way above the sustainable tree line such that, unlike the mountains in British Columbia that are majestic yet verdant with pine and fir trees so these are hard, hulking, dramatic and imposing, imprinting their sheer size on the landscape in a way that makes it impossible to forget that they are in charge, both of history and the future. They have stood for millennia and will continue to dominate the scenery for many more to come.
Our first stop of the day was one of those we almost gave a miss and boy, would we have missed a treat. The trouble is after nearly three weeks of incredible scenery you start to reach saturation point. Mistake! Lesson learned after we very nearly decided to overlook Athabasca Falls. 'Hmmm, what do you think? Another waterfall?' 'Oh go on, it will do us good to get out and stretch our legs. We have a lot of miles to cover'. And BAM! Unbelievable. Bigger, faster, more beautiful etc etc. And we arrived when the sun's rays chose to bless us and our impromptu stop with nature's kiss.
One of the fabulous things about touring in Jasper National Park is the freedom to pull in at any rest stop, viewing point or attraction with no parking charges, no entrance fees, no washroom coins required and no litter! Now we realise what the three-day park pass was for, and very well worth it too. Our day cruising the Icefield Parkway was truly enhanced by this spontaneous approach, by the ability to catch any 'wow', to stop and photograph any view, and to connect with our own version of the majesty of the Rockies as we saw fit. All that is true except of one location - the Columbia Icefields/Athabasca Glacier. Next stop.
For this 'attraction' HRH did loads of research (thank you TripAdviser), I had trawled the guide books and we had consulted people we know who have done a similar trip or whom we have met whilst in Canada. It's fair to say some people really enjoyed their visit but a significant majority had less than glowing reports to give, so we were prepared. Again, I suspect we have been spoiled by previous experiences, but I'm very pleased we didn't spend the £50+ each to join this bun fight. Sorry, but it has become very commercial and consequently something of a disappointment. Apparently I didn't do a very good job of hiding my distain. HRH had this to say (I asked for his unadulterated version): "In isolation it was perhaps quite spectacular. We've seen more impressive glaciers, in nicer settings. But hey, it was ok". His was the generous verdict! We saved ourselves the outlay, walked out on our four feet to the toe of the ice which was disappointingly grubby and surrounded by parched, scrubby brown earth and hoards of people. I've included a photograph because you'll understand why I accept I'm being somewhat disingenuous but we were both happy to leave it behind and resume our drive.
The afternoon was given over to lakes, and views, and views, and lakes. So many beauty spots it is hard to recollect them all. The clouds came and went, the day was hot then humid, the light was intermittently great and then not, so our snaps once again don't always do the landscape justice but the memories will linger on.
Lake Louise deserves a special mention. In a picture-perfect setting this beautiful lake boasts a chateau-style hotel for the privileged few to look down upon the glacial water. For the rest of us, and apparently there are so many visitors that at times the approach roads are closed, an opportunity to take in the gorgeousness from the shoreline. We arrived at close to 6.00pm and although we had no difficulty getting there or parking, I've cropped out the people in the foreground all of whom were doing as we were - trying to get that special shot. This doesn't do it justice. C'est la vie.
At Lake Moraine we had slightly better luck. The last stop of a lovely day's drive before our ultimate destination.
Arriving in Banff after 8.00pm we were delighted to be offered complimentary passes on the local shuttle. I'm a sucker for experiencing places like locals if possible so loved hopping on a bus to 'downtown', where we rolled into the 'Elk and Oarsmen' for burgers and beer. Big love.
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