Life on Two Wheels

Despite the fact that there are many large, expensive cars in evidence in Siem Reap (mostly Korean, Japanese and British at that), the significant majority of natives rely heavily on two wheels. The astonishing thing is what they manage to transport on their bicycles or mopeds. So far, apart from the washing machine strapped to one in Phnom Penh, we've seen pig carcasses, whole 'kitchens' (barbecue, cooking pots, fuel, ingredients etc all ready to set up shop somewhere), crates of live chickens, sacks of rice, blocks of ice, and crops. 

Unfortunately most are travelling at such speed that it's tricky to catch them on film but this chap and his bales of rice grass was moving obligingly slowly.

Their imagination, dexterity and skill is driven largely by necessity but they are certainly well practised, starting at a young age. We are told there's no requirement for a license to ride a moped and as such they start as young as 10 in the countryside, but if you want to progress to tuk tuk driver in town then once you reach 18 a license IS required. Of course, the cost is often prohibitive and explains why many start with a bicycle, save hard to progress to a moped and then make maximum use of it amongst all members of the family ... and neighbours! 

Today it was our turn. Last night when we made plans with our guide for today's cycle trek we tentatively suggested a slightly later start time. "8.30am maybe?" says HRH questionningly. Sharp intake of breath and a wry chuckle followed from Mr Lim. "7.30am is better. Ok?" Very well ....

So once again the alarm was set for 6.30am, we breakfasted before most were awake and were sun-tan-lotioned up by the agreed time. And what a good job we took his advice! 

Today, instead of an air-conditioned car, we set off out of town in a tuk tuk with three mountain bikes on the back. Our trek was to take us out into the countryside to see some of the local agriculture along roads no more than bumpy, sandy, stony tracks with little shade and clouds of dust for the slowest (guess who?) to inhale. Fortunately the tuk tuk followed along behind us carrying our bags and fresh supplies of water. 

It's incredible that on this side of the world an entirely different flora and fauna sustain life than those we see at home. You learn about these things in school and know instinctively that temperate climates sustain one type of agriculture and that more tropical heat and humidity are required for other crops but somehow it only becomes real when you see it for yourself. The coconut palms are not just for decoration - they provide food, drink, construction materials and shade. And so it goes on ....

Tobacco - in someone's garden, for personal consumption only.

Jack fruit - these are the size of basketballs.

Fields of eggplant - the purple ones we recognised are only one of three species here.

Local farmer watering his crops - with the skinniest cows you've ever seen.

After 10k or so the sandy track and the heat got the better of me so I opted to complete the tour in the tuk tuk whilst HRH soldiered on. 

Bye bye - see you soon.

Another 5k later and we were reunited. It has occurred to us more than once that we are so very different coming, as we do, from such varied backgrounds and yet are so very similar as humans. Sareth in Phnom Penh has two small children, his youngest the same age as Polly - and whose favourite song is 'The Wheels on the Bus'! Today Mr Lim showed us his home - recently purchased, and where he has work to do but where he has already installed his chickens - essentially we're just 'same same'!