I'm a Middle Aged Western Woman - Get Me Out of Here!

By my own admission I was a bit grumpy this morning. Tigger, on the other hand, was in fine fettle. Breakfast was a slightly tense affair. It's not so much that I wasn't looking forward to our day's hiking but certainly WAS concerned about the heat, the distance (Ken indicated it would be about 4k which didn't sound right: our itinerary said about 4-5 hours of walking), lunch and how we were to carry sufficient water to prevent dehydration. It also occurred to me as we were collected from our hotel at 8.30am that at home I would never go hiking for any distance without my most comfortable boots, thick socks and a vague idea of where we were going. I had none of the above. HRH remarked in the minibus to goodness-knew-where that he'd missed two weeks of Rambling!

Ah well, there was no turning back now and with our new guide for the day, Pai, assuring us that he had accommodated Mr Exciteable's veggie lunch we were off. Oh, and it was to be 16k!! "Here - some more water to put in your pack" Well at least that was reassuring, if heavy ...

The minibus journey took us around 40 minutes, out of town, travelling some of the worst unsurfaced roads I've experienced to date ("Ah, this is like when I used to go to India" says HRH. Oh good!) and dropped us at the water's edge. First unexpected challenge: cross the river. 

Um .....

Next, having disembarked, cross more water

This is starting to feel like a team challenge!

Finally we settled into some sort of rhythm, and my dark grey mood lifted with the cry of the cicadas as we strode out through forests of tall teak trees, surrounded by incredible mountainous scenery.

Teak is one of the main export commodities from Laos.

Just look at those mountains. I was secretly praying they were more than 16k away but the walking was enjoyable. It was now about 10.30am and getting VERY warm.

Before long we arrived at a small village where we were greeted by excitable children, but where a quick photo opportunity was all that slowed us down. 

Sabaidee!

Aren't they adorable?

River weed drying on racks.

Apparently they have a Women's Union advocating '3 aspects to be considered as good'. They don't say what they are. Thinking about this kept me busy for a while as we ploughed on. 

Continuing through bamboo 'woods' we were told that the next section involved a steep climb and sure enough the terrain, along with the temperatures took an upward turn. If I say that by the time we reached the top I must have consumed my body weight in water and that elevenses was a dose of rehydration salts, two glucose tablets and a banana you might have some idea how utterly draining the climb was - but the shade offered by the charming family who let us borrow their dining table was like an oasis and recovery was soon achieved. 

Late morning. Welcome shade and a chance to rest. 

Pet monkey. They also kept free-range pigs, a few scrawny chickens and a dog or three. 

Renewed energy on board and with another hour to go before our next break (for lunch) we settled down for a few more kilometres.

Everyone greeted us with a friendly wave, even a busy farmer.

Bamboo woods.

Not that ALL I ever think of is food you understand, but a few km further on and I was starting to anticipate lunch (it's energy draining, all this walking and thinking). And so we arrived in Houayfay, a large village of the Camu tribe where they were busy going about their daily chores, drying rice, bringing in the goats and manning the village store. 

Great rice-drying weather.

This goat came to investigate where we were to have our picnic lunch.

The corner shop - we bought yet more water and a coke each. Sugar levels were low again. 

And so to lunch. This was perhaps one of the biggest surprises of the day - and not altogether in a good way. Pai's English was certainly passable but we hadn't really been able to establish where the promised picnic was to be sourced from. It turns out it was in his back pack all along. Out came three plastic bowls, three spoons, and 5 freezer bags, the contents of which were possibly the most unappetising selection of traditional Lao food we've ever seen. A watery bamboo soup, some stir-fried veg (probably the euphemistic river weed - otherwise known as swamp cabbage), some glass noodles with minced meat, a bag of sour pickled veg, and a huge quantity of sticky rice - all cold!! But what were we to do? Hungry, genuinely appreciative and not wishing to offend despite it looking most unappealing we tucked in. Bon appetit.

They even set a cloth on the table for us. 

Final stretch ahead. Just another hour to go to the waterfalls which were our ultimate destination. Sadly Pai gently broke the news that as we are in the dry season the falls are low and the bathing pools empty of water but that didn't mean we had a choice - onwards we went. 

I'm now going to précis the last hour - mostly because I could hardly think about anything other than putting one foot in front of the other. The heat was so intense and the terrain underfoot hard going, up and down over tree roots and slippery with dry leaves, that arriving at the falls, less impressve than we had hoped or not, I was just elated and grateful to have finished. Tigger was still in fine fettle. 

Not much of a cascade.

Pretty though, and welcome if only to indicate the end. I was, frankly, shattered. 

Just another day's ramble?

The journey back to the bus was fun though - by motor boat! Goodness, we've done a few crazy things this trip. Now bed beckons. Up really early tomorrow to catch the monks' alms-giving ceremony. It's non-stop here you know. Night night.