Crazy Horses

Wednesday 24th August. On arriving at the somewhat aptly, if uncreatively named Departure Bay in Nanaimo, in good time to catch the ferry back to the mainland, it was late morning. We'd been trying to find the highlights of the 2 hour drive from Victoria but apart from an amusing interlude when I was prompted to burst into a chorus of Puppy Love as we passed a town en route, only to realise I'd got the wrong 70's pop idol, it was pretty uneventful*. 

The road signs describe the county as 'Super Natural British Columbia'. I like that. And for sure the pine-clad hills and mountains and the shimmering lakes and coastal inlets are stunning, but the main highway between the capital in the south and the ferry terminal is pretty dull, and there was neither desire nor opportunity really to stop so we pressed on. 

So, where was I? Ah yes. In port. By 11.15 the sun was beating down, the sky was blue, the sea sparkly and we couldn't stop ..... yawning!  I like to think it's because we are packing in the sight-seeing (or at least the seeing of many sights) or because we walked 18733 steps yesterday (yes, really - iPhone said so) but it could be the overzealous ceiling fan in the otherwise gorgeous Oswega Hotel Suite that made dropping off tricky or those wretched seagulls who think the day starts at 5.45am! Either way, retreating to the shade of the air-conditioned ferry and we both promptly nodded off! Get a grip, youse twos!! 

As I write he's still snoozing and we will shortly be back in metro Vancouver before picking up interstate 99 and heading north to Whistler. We've been doing our research and, if this fabulous weather holds, are looking forward to some gentle low-level alpine walks, masses of fresh air and a distinct absence of sea birds!

*in case you're wondering the town was called Cassidy and yes, a corrective rendition of 'Daydreamer' DID follow. As did a ridiculous discussion about 'the fat guy on Celebrity Masterchef' (HRH) and full chorus of 'Long Haired Lover from Liverpool' (moi) before being begged to stop. Ha ha ...

Orca Mist

Was it the excitement or was it in fact the noisy seagulls that woke me at 6.00am? Whatever, it was a special day today so once I'd amassed the small pile of gifts and cards it was time to nudge HRH into wakefulness with a gentle rendition of 'When I'm 64' by the Beatles thanks to YouTube. It made him smile, anyway. 

Presents opened and cards displayed we got going so as to be prompt for our whale watching trip. Soon we were aboard the Orca Mist and heading out into the Pacific Ocean.

It wasn't long before the first sighting of a humpbacked whale spout drew excited chatter and much clicking of camera shutters, my own included. The best result came perhaps 20 minutes later when a companion pair were sighted really close to our boat, enabling a short video clip of not one but two successive flukes. Sadly no breaching and even more disappointingly no killer whales today. HRH said the boat should be renamed: the Orca Missed! 

Nevertheless as compensation we were taken to a cluster of small islands for an up close and pretty (rather revoltingly) personal encounter with a colony of Californian seals. These fat, slightly bronze coloured and lazy kin of the harbour seals had serious social issues however: a stench so strong we could only stay down-wind for a short while. Turns out it isn't their poop but their BO that pongs so badly. It has been quite warm of late and we understand their sweat takes on the whiff of the fish they eat. Bleuch!

Back to Victoria after a fun morning at sea for a quick bite to eat and just time for the birthday boy to catch Mim for a FaceTime chat (no luck with the others) before we hit the Harbour Trail for an afternoon walk.....

At least this Orca was behaving itself.

The Friendship Bell

At Fisherman's Wharf

.... and an essential stop at a watering hole for an early-evening drink.

One happy 'recycled teenager'

Dinner tonight was at a vegetarian speciality restaurant, since it's his birthday. Rather appropriately it was named 'Be Loved'. Quite what I should make of the response to my ordering a delicious sounding cocktail comprising local gin, vermouth, Aloe Vera and honey I wasn't so sure. "I'll have a Beautifier please", says I. His reply?

"Good idea" !!!! 

(Just as well I still need him and have promised to still feed him). Bless.

Clearly, the obvious choice!

Cheers xx

 

Ferry Nice, Thank You

It wasn't even 9.30am when on Monday morning we were loaded up into our hired Chevrolet (I love saying that) and heading south out of Vancouver towards Tsawassen. That's basically the ferry port for crossings to Victoria, the largest city on Vancouver Island. For a start I thought it would be like the other side of town (not - it's about 45mins to an hour away) and then I imagined the crossing to be akin to the Isle of Wight ferry (not - it's more like the Dover-Calais route to France!) but by early afternoon we were on the island and soon arriving at one of the most highly recommended places to visit - the Butchart Gardens. 

Sunken Garden - first wow. (Lots of the other photos taken there have been helpfully collated by Facebook into a neat video).

We were blessed again with fabulous weather and to have visited at the perfect time of year and on such a beautiful day made the visit all the more special. The gelato was pretty yum too.

Next surprise was the lovely hotel we checked into where I'm writing this after a stroll around Victoria and dinner in a traditional diner with a US baseball game playing on the huge tv screen over the bar (we DO so like doing what the locals do). Yeah, so this place, The Oswego Hotel is a cut above - we have a suite that's more of an apartment, complete with sitting room, fully equipped kitchen, the softest robes ever known to man, and a bowl full of fruit...oh, and a balcony, all of which was a super pleasant surprise. Perfect for HRH to wake up in tomorrow on his birthday. Oh, and the stroll back here after dinner was pretty splendid too ...

The seat of government - on Government Street (creative, don't you think?) but beautifully illuminated. 

Packing It In

Sunday night - already?! Whoosh - the weekend has flown by. Action packed and loads of fun, this sensory overload stuff is brilliant but exhausting. 

Saturday saw us heading straight out, after checking into The Listel (artistic, quirky, green), to locate the nearest Vancouver Trolly Company Hop-On, Hop-Off stop. These classic old trolleys, styled on those in San Francisco, have two circuits - the Green/Park route and the Red/City route, each about an hour and a half if you just stay on board to orientate yourselves. Guess which we chose?

The trolley may be red but we were headed for Stanley Park ... on the green route.

Past the harbour, the yacht club, through the rose garden, alongside the Lighthouse, the 9.00clock gun, English Bay with its beautiful beach, to Prospect Point and beyond, all lovely places with fabulous views but with so much else we wanted to see, and another pre-booked tour planned for later in the day we chose to stay on the bus and did the complete circuit. Great way to see loads and get the commentary to boot.

Harry Jerome, Canadian athlete, immortalised in bronze and set against the Vancouver skyline.

It was later yesterday afternoon that the big fun started. Having been picked up from our hotel we set off on what we remembered from booking ages ago as an 'Evening Combo - Capilano Bridge and Grouse Mountain'. And then we'd promptly forgotten the detail ...

Heading over Lions Gate bridge to the north shore and the foot of Grouse Mountain. This was not THE bridge ...

Capilano Bridge is in fact a 450ft span pedestrian suspension bridge crossing the 230ft distance across the waters of Capilano Canyon - and yes, it sways, and wobbles and is somewhat unnerving to walk across but is brilliant fun! 

This is what we'd walked over!

What's more, once you get to the other side there's more excitement to be had with an extensive network of treetop boardwalks to navigate waaaay up in the temperate rainforest amongst some of the tallest cedars I've ever seen. It's not easy to portray a sense of height but it was thrilling and a unique experience to be up there. 

HRH ... or is it Tarzan? ... up ahead in the distance.

And as if that wasn't enough then there's the Cliff Walk that sees you navigating more pathways over the ravine but this time hugging - but not always - the cliff face. 

This section protrudes about 25 ft out, attached at each end to the rock face. 

Honestly, we had the best fun, finished off with a giggle or two amongst the totem poles, and all the more enjoyable for being unexpectedly better than we'd anticipated. 

Honestly, you can't take some totem poles anywhere without them impersonating Grommit!

Think that's it? Nope - combo part two was still to come. Back to the bus and another 15 minute journey saw us at Grouse Mountain base station, which was where we boarded .... the mountain aerial cable car for a thrilling 8 minute swoop up to the top for the most glorious views over Vancouver at dusk. Sadly my photos are rubbish. You'll just have to take my word for it. What are not so rubbish are the pics of the grizzly bears we got to see, up close and pretty personal! Ok, so they are in a protected yet semi-wild habitat but we were able to get a real sense of their size and strength all the same. 

Grinder (or possibly Coola - they had forgotten to put their name badges on that day) who stands as big as a full grown cow, when on all fours.

And that was just Saturday. 

Heading back down the mountain.

Today, Sunday, saw us on the red/city Hop-On/Hop-Off route, calling at Granville Market for a spot of drooling at the fresh produce and lunch ....

Teardrop grapes!

Downtown, from Granville Market

... followed by a long walk in the glorious sunshine along the water's edge from Canada Place to Stanley Park and just time to change for dinner with an old colleague of HRH's in the revolving restaurant at The Lookout. 

Now that's just greedy.

What a weekend. Off to Vancouver Island and Victoria tomorrow. Early start to pick up our wheels. Night night.

Last Resort

In case you were wondering, having been off-grid for more than 24 hours, just how we occupied ourselves on Friday, I'd give up now. You won't guess, not in a million years (unless, possibly that is, your name is Amanda). 

Having left Ketchikan early evening on Thursday and feeling ready to draw a line under all the cruising indulgence, we had one final day on board to go before disembarking in Vancouver. It was with some anticipation therefore that we awaited the daily programme of events for Friday's day at sea. Looking back I'm not sure what I was hoping for, or expecting, but to our disappointment the programme was less than inspiring. So it was down to twiddling thumbs, reading or taking a big deep breath and diving in (not overboard, don't worry. Even I wasn't that desperate.) No, the 'last resort' was not another port to visit but a Ready, Steady, Cook style culinary farce/demo conducted by members of the band vs members of the dance troupe followed by a towel-folding demo! You think i'm joking, don't you? Needless to say HRH found himself a quiet corner somewhere with his book or occasionally went for a walk round the deck but refused to join me. Can't say I blame him, but a girl can only do so many circuits of the same ship (even throwing in the occasional reverse direction for variety) before even towel folding becomes interesting. Of course, I'm not just talking about stacking them neatly in piles. Oh no. This was art. Silly and unnecessary but artful. 

Every night, after our room had been 'turned down', the next day's programme delivered and the individual chocolates laid neatly on the bed, there in all its glory would be a towel creature!! I've been waiting for an occasion to share these pics with you - so having now been shown how to make them here's what you can expect next time you come to stay*

Curtis Crab (maybe?)

Dilbert the Dog

Sally Sealion

Emily Elephant

Gus Gorilla

Time to get me off this ship ....!

*NOT!!

Thursday's Child has Far to Go**

They say variety is the spice of life. On that basis, today was not just your nutmeg, cloves or cinnamon, it was positively AllSpice! 

After a huge 5 course gala dinner last night we had vowed to be sensible with meals and to get more exercise today. Thank goodness we started well! Shortly before 8.00am I was in the pool and HRH was out on deck for a brisk walk. So far so good. Breakfast was, well let's say, not too overindulgent but justified by our plan to skip lunch as we'd be in port. Good. I even unpacked my walking pole and on went the boots ready for a few hours in Ketchikan. With no tour activities planned we'd identified a couple of trails we could take on and which would keep our minds firmly off food. Still good. The sky was clearing of cloud, and as soon as the ship docked we were at the Visitor Centre picking up a map. The must-sees in Ketchikan are an odd mix and after Skagway, we thought this town, with its heavy Native People influence, would be easily covered in an hour leaving time for a decent walk out of town. Hmmm, didn't quite work out like that. No sooner had we picked up the route to the historic centre than we got distracted when the so-called 'salmon ladder' turned out to be a river teeming with hundreds of fish, all swimming madly upstream to their nearby spawning ground. Well, there was 45 minutes of static excitement before we had barely started! Call us easily impressed but this was a sight to behold so whiling away the best part of an hour simply following their progress up through white water caused by several gentle flights of rocks was easily done. If I had been a bear, I could have reached in and scooped up an armful such were their numbers and proximity (there we go - thinking about food again!) At maybe 200 yards long the ladder represented quite a challenge for the fish. Just as well they were working hard. Someone had to! We even spotted three somewhat lazy, over fed seals, lolling about amongst the salmon, too stuffed to be bothered to hunt. Hmmm, we know that feeling! 

Nearly there. Just a couple more flights of  white water to go, gang! 

Right, come on - time to make an effort. Next stop Creek Street. Turns out, what looked a bit of a walk away was about 10 steps! Did we overlook the map scale? Clearly ...

Creek Street is built on stilts, right on and over the creek, and although is today mostly trinket shops was once the busy red light district of town. Welcomed by the many ladies of the night and fuelled by liquor, fishermen would arrive in their droves, and off load rather more than just their haul at the cannery! The most famous 'sports woman' of all was Dolly Arthur, an astute business woman and much loved in more ways than one. She plied her trade at the head of Creek Street from the early 1900s for 40 years, and in fact only left her house there in 1973 when failing eyesight and ill health forced her to move to a nursing home. When she died a few years later she was found to be incredibly wealthy and the attendants at her funeral numbered in their thousands. We, rather less energetically, took a short tour through her 4-roomed slightly tatty house, now a 'museum' (of sorts) before giving ourselves a bit of a talking to about our sedentary morning! At least Married Man's Trail (all 0.2 miles of it, and so-called because it offered a slightly more covert route to the brothels than the main  street) was uphill through the woods. If we got a sweat on however it wasn't down to the effort but rather the result of a sudden surge in temperature! Up went the Mercury, and down went our resolve to hike. Still, lovely to stroll to the Totem Heritage Centre in the sunshine. 

This married man was headed AWAY from Creek Steet. Just sayin'.

Ever wondered what all those carvings on totem poles mean? We figured they were merely decorative or symbols to ward off spirits. Turns out some were just house address labels! Ok, so I'm over-simplifying, but truly the purpose of some totem poles was to indicate the heritage of a local family so others knew where to find them. Others had perhaps greater significance, being erected in memory of someone's passing or even to house ashes after death, whilst on occasion a totem might be erected to shame a miscreant for wrongdoings (until amends were made and the totem chopped down). All in all, we managed, nerd-like, to mosey round the air-conditioned museum for a good while before realising that breakfast had by now become something of a distant memory. Hmmm ...

Just going to slip this in quickly, quietly .... a mere snack (OK more of a lunch) happened next. Well we needed to buy a drink, and stuff. It's fine. Really.

And so Ketchikan was almost complete. By this time my feet were really hot in my heavy hiking boots, HRH was in fear of burning and frankly the cool of our stateroom seemed to be beckoning. Nice.

Bye bye Alaska. 

Once divested of unnecessary layers, having picked up a book each and with a view to finding a lounger on deck somewhere, we next set off in search of a refreshing cup of tea. And we found one - oh boy, did we ever! 

Having not previously been in the right place mid-afternoon we hadn't really acknowledged that something rather special happens at 3.00pm. Trust us to discover this today. That delicious and welcome cup of tea soon turned into the whole nine yards when we were ushered to a white-cloth-clad table in the Manhattan Dining Room and presented with open sandwiches, scones and cake! Well you just can't say no when the charming staff have gone to so much trouble - can you?

 

Led in by our greedy curiosity and out by our belly buttons there was now no choice but to find that quiet deck lounger and read (euphemism for nap! Whoops). 

Such a varied and unexpected day simply had to be finished off in same vein. A pub quiz. Yes, I know this sounds like something innocuous but HRH isn't a fan of group activities, so getting him to go was an achievement. Turns out it was just 30 minutes of general (albeit Amerco-centric) general knowledge and despite initial reservations was a spot of good fun, that saw us each given an Alaska pin  for being runners up. 

Right, I'm not even going to mention dinner, and the film we then sat around watching. I'd be too embarrassed. And anyway I'm now tired. It's been a busy day. So there. Wa-e ak-we*

* Good night, in Klingit, the language of the Yakutat southern native people.

** Shame she didn't go a bit further really! 

Pretty, Moving and Pretty Moving

Despite being a day of 'rest', by which I mean a day at sea with no scheduled port stops, today demanded an early start. By 6.00am the local National Park Rangers were aboard, brought in by dinghy, the doors to the bow were thrown open and the excitement amongst the early risers was palpable. Outside our stateroom the muffled voices and feet of nature-curious passengers could be heard moving along to access the deck apron to stake their claim to prime viewing spots. Having our own balcony, close to the bow and on the starboard (right, and therefore shore side, whilst we were still travelling North) proved to be a well calculated blessing (nice one HRH). The object of such keen interest was Glacier Bay. A vast stretch of waters, forked and twisting, this area of outstanding natural beauty was to be navigated slowly but surely throughout the day, before the Nieuw Amsterdam would turn South to commence the long sail back to Vancouver. 

The Rangers were on site to give presentations, answer questions, clarify matters of geographical and geological interest and to promote the continued interest in and protection of Glacier Bay National Park. As our Captain skilfully negotiated the ship slowly but steadily through the icily blue/green waters the sun came out and bathed the mountain tops with sunlight, creating the perfect backdrop for stunning views after stunning views. At each turn another glacier came into view culminating, by lunchtime, with Marjery Glacier, the most incredible of all. 

Panorama, thanks to the incredible technology built into modern iPhones.

And, contrary to expectations (prompted by fears of global warming), although some glaciers are retreating, others continue to grow. How each is changing depends on the elevation and pitch of the nearby mountains. Those that remain snow-clad for much of the year lay down continuous new ice to feed and promote growth of their nearest glacier whilst the lower-lying peaks whose run-off melts or lays less deep feed shallower glaciers, more prone to retreating and eventual loss. More fascinating, especially at the deepest of glacier faces where whole chunks can fall off at any time, these living, moving forces of nature can be heard as well as seen. Encouraged to be quiet on deck and with all music and outdoor activities suspended, we joined many others listening to the creaking, cracking and pistol-shot noises coming from the glaciers as they shift under their own weight. We were even treated to a rare but beautiful 'calving', with a significant hunk of glacial ice falling from the face with an almighty roar like thunder. 

As the dense ice falls into the sea so it introduces oxygen as well as mineral rich silt which contribute to the colour of the ocean.

And so, after much static admiration of the scenery a few turns round the deck were required before dinner. It seemed many had the same idea! 

Once again, heading south, after leaving Glacier Bay behind us, I snapped this view from a deck porthole during our 'constitutional'.

Here then, the end of another day. After all that beauty and excitement it seemed positively churlish not to have a Blue Lagoon cocktail before dinner to celebrate. Cheers!